Big City, Low Prices
As the world's most expensive city, Tokyo can seem a daunting prospect for tourists. Japan's wealthy capital seems a destination few would attempt on a budget. In reality, however, reputed high costs are strongly couched in cultural mythology. The fast-paced metroplis has many affordable options for tourists prepared to research their destination.
Most visitors will find Japan to have cultural advantages which reduce the cost of travel. With the exception of a 5% VAT on goods, every price is all inclusive. Tipping is not a feature of Japanese culure. In fact staff will usually follow you with change if you try to leave extra money. An almost non-existent crime rate and homeless population means there are no beggars or touts on the streets, and insurance premiums are low. Holiday extras such as bottled water, cigarettes, and snacks are also affordable. Water is available from every street vending machine for 60p, and cigarettes cost £1.20 a pack. A secondary factor is the economic climate. Tokyo no longer operates in a culture of extreme wealth. Even within the last year, the yen has fallen by almost a fifth of its value to the pound.
Transport in the form of subways and express trains is clean, fast, and inconcievably efficient. A short subway journey costs 160 yen - the equivelent of 80p. An all day ticket costs £5.20; a bargain when you take into account that Tokyo is vast; the equivalent of several sub-cities conglomerated into one large area. More importantly the underground system is never late; not even by ten seconds. Not only does this mean you waste less of your day stuck in tunnels, you can also visit more of the city for your train fare.
Common sense should warn you not to travel by taxi. Taxis charge £3.20 for the first two kilometres and 40p for each additional 274 metres. Although this is not exhorberant, Tokyo is a very large city, and metre charges soon add up. More importantly, after eleven o'clock there is a 30% surcharge. As subways and buses stop running at midnight, the transport situation requires some careful thought if you intend to go out drinking late. It is rarely advisable to simply “do what the locals do” in Tokyo. In real terms this means getting a six figure salary. However, as a visitor you can stay close to the nightlife districts because you don't have to commute. Alternativly, many people simply stay out until five am when the tubes start running - after all, you don't have work in the morning.
Where to stayThe falling yen is not the only reason why Tokyo can be a good value destination. In general Tokyo reaps cash dividends for tourists with a little local knowledge. Hotels and tourist accommodation in general in Tokyo is prohibitively expensive. Even a moderate hotel can set you back a few hunded pounds a night. However, Youth Hostels in Tokyo are palacial compared to their western counterparts. Most rival the standard of mid-range hotels in England, and are often overlooked by tourists.
If you're looking real low cost, Hotel New Koyo, (2-26-13 Nihonzutsumi, Taito-ku, tel: 38730343, newkoyo.com) is a mere £14 per night. Not so much a family residence, with the tiny rooms lending more of a traveller's feel. It is advertised as the cheapest hostel in Tokyo (although you can get cheaper if you forgoe showers).
The YMCA Asia centre of Japan, (8-10-32 Minata-ku, Akasaka, 3402 6111) is more like a hotel in western terms. It costs £51 per night, and is clean and peaceful, with good communal areas. The biggest advantage is the location - about twenty minutes walk from major nightlife spots.
An ideal spot for families, with large clean rooms, and beautfiul Japanese bathing facilities is the Tokyo Central Youth Hostel, (18F, Central Plaza, 1-1- Kagurakashi, Shinjuku-ku.) The food is also good value - a first rate traditional Japanese breakfast costs £2. Guests are expected to be out between ten and three, however, and there is a strict curfew of ten o clock. Dormitory rooms cost £18 a night for adults and £10 for children.
A deal has been struck with the YMCA to get members hotel accomodation at the Hotel Sky Court, (Taito-ku, 38154411). The rate is £26 per night, which includes free internet access. The hotel is also well located, and has no curfew.
Where to eatTokyo is an absolute mecca for foodies, with resturants serving up cheap ramen and sushi everywhere. You can pick up the ubiquitous snack of rice wrapped in seaweed and stuffed with fish for 50p. Unlike London, the pirces don't correspond to areas, so you can secure a meal for £3 a head in the most upmarket retail district. With some planning you can easily eat well for £3.50 a meal. A good option for cheap meals are the many restuarants which display vending machiens outside. Simply choose a picture, slide in your money, and take the ticket to the restuarnt counter.
For huge bowls of ramen, with various accompaniments from £2.70 a bowl, Jangara, (Sotobori-dori, Minata-ku, Akasaka, 11-3pm, 5-12.30am) is a good staple. It has a great atmostphere, looking for all the world like a bamboo lean-to next to the Hie Shrine.
The Japanese city of Osaka specialises in cheap, make your own omelette retaurants. Tokyo has a few versions of it's own, and at Sometaro, (2-2-2 Nishi, Taito-ku, Asakusa) customers choose from bowls of ingrediants from £3. You then cook this at the griddle-cum-table at which you are seated - cross legged of course.
In the heart of Shinjuku, Shion (3-25 Shinjuku-ku, Shinjuku) is one of many bargain revolving sushi retaurants. Plates are priced from 50p to 80p, and this includes as much green tea as you can drink.
Two of the three famous soba (buckwheat noodle) retaurants in Tokyo serve meals from £2.50. Owariya, (1-1-3 Taito-ku, Asakusa) is one such venue, renowned for it's fresh, cold noodles served daily.
Sushi coneissuers might want to try the Tsukiji Fish Market, which opens daily from five am. Small cafes bordeirng the market serve up the world's freshest sushi breakfasts for about a fiver.
Where to DrinkIf you come to Tokyo you have to get sumpremely drunk in the local bars and clubs. This is a national passtime, and what the Japanese lack in tolerance they make up for in endurance. Unfortuantly drink features as a Tokyo mainstay of expense. An average bottle of beer costs £4. One solution is to go to bars which have set prices per drink (usually around £5) and order a cocktail with six shots in it. Similarly, karoake bars often have all you can drink offers instead of happy hour. You can also vend yourself a can of beer at any time of the day or night for £1.70, and careful hunting will get you off-licence prices similar to back home.
Bars stay open until the very early hours of the morning, and frequantly double up as clubbing nightspots, with dance floors. If you are not a dedicated clubber this can save you untold amounts in drinks and entrance prices. Similarly, social bar-flys may find hospitable Japanese people are more than happy to buy them a few drinks.
For a quintessentially Tokyo experience, travel five floors in the elevator to Bar Hama (Roppongi BLDG, 5th floor 6-2-35 Minata-ku, Roppongi). The cool, neon-lit interior also provides excellent nighttime views of hectic Roppongi nightlife. Most weekdays you can get a beer for £2.50 a bottle.
Hoochie Coochie, (25-5, Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya) is one of the many places in Tokyo boasting a live jazz band. They also serve a selection of cocktails - the like of which you won't experience anywhere else in the world.
For a cheerful bar reminiscent of an izakaya - or traditional Japanese pub, try Ryu-Sen, (12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya-ku, Shibuya) for good drink offers. You are expected to pay a table charge, but the experience is quintessentially Japanese, and drinks can be as cheap as £2.50 a bottle.
For an immaculately decored bar Ocean Bar, (Minata-ku, Roppongi) provides a themed drinking venue in beautfiul surroundings. Drinks range form £2.50 to five pound, and seem to depend on the mood of the staff, so being charming can save you a few pounds.
What to seeFor most people the price of a tube ticket will gain them as much entertainment as they need in Tokyo. Visitors may also enjoy the experience of a traditional Japanese bath, which is a standard facility in most youth hostels. An evening out might include a sumo match, which generally costs around £12 for a day ticket from The Nihon Sumo Kyokai, (1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku). For this fee you can watch the amatuer bouts from 9am, right through to the proffessional matches which end about eight o'clock in the evening. Be warned, however, the Japanese crowd seem to appreciate nuances of sumo entertainment which can be lost on westerners.
Traditional Japanese gardens can also be seen for free, with a good exmaple being Hibiya Park (Hibiiya Koen 1-6, Chiyoda-kuin). Defintely not to be missed is the man-made island of Odaiba, off Tokyo bay. The island includes a beach, a huge shopping centre, and a landmark tower. Odaiba is also home to Venus Fort - a state of the art retail paradise. The interior of the building has been modelled on an open air european city, and a computer animated skyline which changes throughout the day is projected onto the ceiling.
Other tourist excursions include the electric city of Akihabara - a neon haven of electrical goods. Serious shoppers can pick up laptops at knock down prices, although larger electrical equipment will need a transformer to work in the UK. An hour out of Tokyo is the fantastic Fujikyu Highlands - a theme park containing the world's highest, fastest, steepest rollercoaster. For a mere £5 a ride, and £6 entrance to the park.
Getting ThereTokyo is one of the few destinations which you can still get to as an air courier. This can knock the price of your ticket from thousands of pounds to hundreds. The average price is £400 per ticket, and you are unlikely to pay more than £600.
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